One of most interesting aspects of the Russian Collection (and the coat, by extension) was its power to sway the public opinion of Russia. While Rive Gauche was ready-to-wear, it would still have been an more expensive than other available coats. The versatility of this coat also speaks to how useful and wise a purchase it would be, considering that it could be worn appropriately at different times and events. Yves Saint Laurent was a name on the lips of anyone with any interest in fashion, and his Russian Collection was hailed as revolutionary. The woman who purchased it was very aware of the latest trends. Neiman Marcus opened a Rive Gauche boutique in Northbrook, Illinois around the time, making it the location the coat was likely purchased at (Hindman, 2021). The provenance of the coat is traceable to the original owner, Grace Nissman, who purchased it in Chicago according to curatorial records. This trim, run along the front, bottom, cuffs, sleeves and armscye, gives the coat an Eastern European feeling. What stands out is the richly colored purple wool felt accented with the braiding. The design in both construction and appearance is very simple. The garment is entirely sewn by machine, in keeping with its being ready-to-wear. The coat itself is semi-fitted due to the center seam down the back. The two pockets on the front are slashed pockets with upturned flaps. The lining is a satin fabric, and there are five purple, plastic, dome-shaped buttons that fasten the coat down the front. The braided trim colored purple and green is also made of wool. The exterior of this coat is an extremely thick, felted wool dyed a rich, deep purple. When the collection debuted, it was the most expensive fashion show ever produced. In response, society women wore pieces from the Russian Collection to the opening, which only increased the collection’s popularity. The Metropolitan Museum of Art sponsored such a show in December, 1976, which showcased meticulously embroidered peasant outfits alongside the wedding dress of Catherine the Great. “Sometimes the jackets are sleeveless, but always braid-edged.”Īt the time this coat was produced, the United States and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics were exchanging art items to be displayed at museums in both countries as a successful attempt at reducing Cold War tensions. Fashion writer Bernadine Morris used such terms as “haute peasant look” and “elegant peasants” when describing the braid-edged jackets. He was also inspired by Russian fantasy and heroines in Russian literature. Very loose, not complicated.” Saint Laurent later said he was inspired by the way Russian peasants lived and existed outside of the Russian politics living simple lives. The New York Times quoted him, in an interview published just months after the Collection’s debut, as saying, “They are derived from the typical clothes of Austria, Morocco, Czechoslovakia, Russia,” he said. Saint Laurent, who was born in French Algeria and grew up living on the Mediterranean, was often influenced by non-western cultures. This coat is from Saint Laurent’s famous Russian Collection, presented in 1976. Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008) launched his prêt-à-porter, or ready to wear collection he titled Rive Gauche in 1966, at the beginning of what was to become a standard practice for fashion designers.
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